Japanese maples often end up in the wrong place. Maybe it is getting scorched in afternoon sun, crowding a walkway, or hidden behind a shrub. The good news is that a young Japanese maple can be moved successfully. The Morton Arboretum rates it as moderate for transplanting, not easy but far from impossible. Success depends on three things: moving it at the right time, keeping as many roots as possible, and watering faithfully afterwards.

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The short answer: move a Japanese maple while it is dormant, ideally in early spring before the buds open, or in fall after the leaves drop. Dig a root ball as wide as you can manage, at least 16 inches across for a tree with a 1-inch trunk and more for bigger trees, and keep the soil ball intact. Replant at the same depth in a shaded or partly shaded spot with moist, well-drained soil, water deeply, mulch, and keep the soil evenly moist for the next two to three years.

When to transplant

Iowa State University recommends moving trees and shrubs during the dormant season, and notes that early spring is generally the best time because conditions are ideal for rapid root growth. If you move a deciduous tree in fall, Iowa State advises waiting until it is dormant. For a Japanese maple, that means after the leaves have dropped.

Dig when the soil is moist and the plant is not under drought stress. Water the tree well a day or two before you start.

Avoid transplanting in summer. A Japanese maple in full leaf loses water fast, and NC State notes young leaves are not drought tolerant and may scorch with excess sun, wind or drought.

Pick the new spot first

Prepare the new hole before you dig the tree, so the roots are out of the ground for as short a time as possible. Choose a site that suits the tree:

Light: NC State recommends dappled shade; the Morton Arboretum lists partial sun. Afternoon shade helps prevent leaf scorch.
Soil: moist, well-drained and rich in organic matter.
Wind: NC State advises protecting Japanese maples from drying winds.
Space: check the mature size of your variety; see how big Japanese maples grow.

The ISA recommends a planting hole two to three times wider than the root ball, but no deeper, so the tree sits at the same depth it grew before.

How big a root ball?

The more roots you keep, the faster the tree recovers. Iowa State gives these minimum root ball diameters, based on ISA guidance:

Tree size	Minimum root ball diameter
3 ft tall	12 in
4 ft tall	14 in
1 in trunk (about 5 ft)	16 in
1.5 in trunk	20 in
2 in trunk	24 in
2.5 in trunk	28 in
3 in trunk	32 in

Trunk diameter is measured 6 inches above the ground. Iowa State notes that soil balls get heavy quickly: a 12-inch ball may weigh 30 to 60 pounds and a 24-inch ball 250 to 400 pounds. Anything over 24 inches usually needs equipment or a professional.

Step by step

Tie up the branches loosely with soft twine so you can reach the base.
Mark a circle about 6 inches wider than the root ball you want.
Cut straight down around the circle with a sharp spade, back of the spade toward the tree, about 9 to 12 inches deep. Iowa State recommends cutting large roots with sharp loppers rather than chopping with the spade, which jars the soil ball.
Dig a trench outside the circle, then shape and undercut the ball at about a 45-degree angle.
Lift by the ball, never the trunk. Slide burlap or a tarp underneath and lift with a helper.
Keep roots moist and shaded if there is any delay. Iowa State suggests covering the ball with moist wood chips or damp straw.
Set the tree in the new hole with the root flare at or just above soil level. The ISA advises removing any wrapping from around the root ball and trunk.
Backfill with the soil you removed, firming gently to remove air pockets. The ISA suggests watering periodically as you backfill to settle the soil.
Water slowly and deeply right away to settle the soil.
Mulch 2 to 3 inches deep over the root zone, leaving a mulch-free ring of 1 to 2 inches at the base of the trunk, as the ISA recommends.

Aftercare

The Morton Arboretum notes newly planted trees may need regular watering for two to three years until their roots are established. The ISA recommends keeping the soil moist by watering at least once a week, barring rain, and more often during hot, windy weather, continuing until mid-fall. Japanese maples are sensitive to dry soil, and the Morton Arboretum notes dry soils can lead to leaf scorch.

Do not fertilize at planting. The ISA advises against it.
Do not prune heavily. Remove only broken or dead branches.
Watch for leaf scorch. Browned leaf edges are a sign the roots are not keeping up with water demand. Check the soil moisture and water more deeply if it is dry.

Container-grown or very small trees

If your Japanese maple is small enough to lift with a generous root ball in one piece, the process is the same, just easier. Older trees that have been in place many years have roots spread far beyond the trunk, so they lose more roots in a move. A large, established Japanese maple is often better left in place, or moved by a professional with a tree spade.

For pruning after the tree settles in, see can you trim a maple in summer and the best month to trim a maple tree.

Sources

Transplanting Trees and Shrubs, Iowa State University Extension
Japanese Maple, The Morton Arboretum
Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple), NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
Planting a Tree, International Society of Arboriculture, TreesAreGood.org
Watering Trees and Shrubs, The Morton Arboretum

Top photo: EgorovaSvetlana, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

How Do You Transplant a Japanese Maple?