Willows are among the easiest trees to get established. They root quickly, grow fast and tolerate wet soil that drowns many other trees. Timing still matters, especially for bare-root trees and cuttings, and the decision of where to plant matters even more.

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The short answer: plant willows in the dormant season: in fall after the leaves drop, or in early spring before the buds open. Container-grown willows can be planted through the growing season if you water them well. Choose a sunny spot with plenty of moisture and plenty of room, well away from the house, sewer lines and septic fields. Water at least weekly through the first growing season.

The best time to plant

The International Society of Arboriculture names the dormant seasons, fall after leaf drop and early spring before bud break, as the ideal times to plant new trees. Cool weather lets the roots establish before spring rains and summer heat push new top growth.

Type of plant	Best planting time	Notes
Bare-root willow	Early spring before bud break	Plant as soon as the soil can be worked; keep roots moist
Balled-and-burlapped	Fall after leaf drop or early spring	Avoid planting into frozen or waterlogged soil
Container-grown	Spring through early fall	Summer planting needs frequent watering
Dormant cuttings	Late winter to early spring	Willow stems root readily in moist soil

Fall or spring?

Both work. Fall planting gives roots several weeks to grow before winter in many regions. In areas with harsh winters or where the soil freezes early, early spring is often safer, especially for bare-root stock.

Choose the site first

Before you think about the month, settle on the spot.

Sun: the UC Statewide IPM Program says willows do best in full sun with ample water.
Moisture: willows tolerate wet sites very well, according to the Morton Arboretum. Low spots, pond edges and stream banks suit them.
Room: the University of Florida IFAS Extension lists weeping willow at 30 to 50 feet tall with an equal or greater spread and recommends it only where there is adequate space, not on typical residential lots.
Away from pipes: UF IFAS warns against planting near underground water or sewer lines or septic drain fields. See how far a willow should be from a house.

How to plant a willow tree

The ISA’s planting steps work well for willows:

Find the trunk flare, where the roots spread at the base of the trunk. It should be partially visible after planting.
Dig a shallow, broad hole, two to three times wider than the root ball but only as deep as the root ball.
Remove wrapping and wire, and check for circling roots. Straighten, cut or remove them.
Set the tree at the right height. Most roots grow in the top 12 inches of soil, and planting too deep is harmful.
Backfill gently but firmly, watering as you go to remove air pockets. Skip the fertilizer at planting time.
Mulch 2 to 4 inches deep over the planting area, keeping it a couple of inches away from the trunk.
Stake only if needed, and remove stakes after the first year.

Planting willow cuttings

Willows are famous for growing from cuttings. In late winter or early spring, take pencil- to thumb-thick pieces of last year’s growth, 12 to 18 inches long, from a healthy dormant tree. Push them into moist soil with at least two-thirds of the length below ground and buds pointing up. Keep the soil moist. Many will root and leaf out within weeks.

Only take cuttings from trees you are allowed to use, and check that the species is not considered invasive in your area. The UC IPM Program notes that some Salix species are invasive weeds.

Watering a new willow

The ISA advises keeping the soil moist by watering at least once a week, barring rain, and more often in hot, windy weather, continuing until mid-fall. Willows are thirsty, so in sandy soil or dry summers, check every few days. UF IFAS notes that weeping willows in drier spots need regular watering to avoid leaf drop during drought.

The first year

Prune only broken or damaged branches. The ISA advises delaying corrective pruning until after a full season of growth.
Then start structural pruning to build a single strong trunk. See when to prune a willow.
Keep grass and weeds out of the mulch ring.
Watch for early pests such as aphids and willow leaf beetles; small populations rarely need treatment.

Common mistakes

Planting too close to the house or drains because the sapling looks small.
Planting too deep, burying the trunk flare.
Letting a new willow dry out in its first summer.
Fertilizing heavily, which pushes weak, soft growth.

If your new tree drops leaves in summer, see why a weeping willow loses leaves.

Sources

Planting a Tree, International Society of Arboriculture, TreesAreGood.org
Salix babylonica: Weeping Willow (ENH-734), University of Florida IFAS Extension
White Willow, The Morton Arboretum
Willow, UC Statewide IPM Program

Top photo: USDA Forest Service, Pacific Northwest Region, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

When to Plant Willow Trees (and How to Get Them Started)